I first tasted this wine over 20 years ago, when the Gruet brand was less well known. I was sitting at one of my fvorite San Francisco wine bars when my friend behind the counter put a glass in front of me with a splash of this wine in it, saying, "I've got something I want you to try".
I smiled because these words often precede a little wine geek game. The wine might be something really exciting or it might be total dreck, served up just to see the face I'd make. Or to see if I could tell the difference!
Well, this was no dreck. It's French influence was evident (the family has roots in the Champagne business), and I guessed its price to be in the range of $35/bottle (remember, this was many years ago). It was priced just a third of that. But that was only my first surprise. When they told me it was grown and vinified in New Mexico - gobsmacked!
The term "Blanc de Noir" (White from Black) refers to a sparkling wine made from the red grapes used in the Champagne region - Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. When you pour a galss of this wine, note that it has a slight hue to it from the skin contact that occurred during the production process. These grapes add more than just color, they also add a richness, a depth of flavor not found in the elegant "Blanc de Blanc" versions of sparkling wine (made from mostly/only Chardonnay).
This extra richness makes this wine a versatile partner for a wide range of dishes, particularly think salmon grilled or poached, chicken in just about any preparation, and everything from summer picnics to salumi plates to Thanksgiving dinner.
The Winery
Founded in 1984, Gruet Winery traces its history to Gilbert Gruet's Champagne house in Bethon, France. After an extensive search for a New World outpost, the family bought land in New Mexico, where its high-altitude (4,000 - 5,000 feet!) weather patterns and soil types can yield the sort of grapes required for Champagne-style wines.
Natalie and Laurent Gruet planted an experimental vineyard in 1983, and the next year settled on land in Engle, New Mexico. Today, they blend their still wines with wines they make in CA and WA, giving the finished product greater complexity. Sofian Himeur, the grandson of Gilbert Gruet, is now the assistant winemaker, earning 90+ points from Wine Spectator and a coveted "Top 100" ranking.
