The WineThe Pinot Gris grape is a mutation of the red Pinot Noir, and it often shows just the slightest, barely perceptible tinge of color once in the glass. The wine balances a rich mouthfeel and a zesty finish, resulting in a refreshing wine that prepares your palate for the next bite of food. The wine has enthusiastic aromas featuring lemon and grapeftuit. About 600 cases produced.
Instead of a paper label, each of Lichen's wines has a screen-print image featuring a different variety of the local Lichen. Carrying this branding theme even further, visitors to the tasting room are given a clip board with the tasting sheet and a piece of lichen as adornment.
The Winery
Doug Stewart is a serial entrepreneur. So by definition, he's not afraid to push some boundaries. Leveraging the sale of his frozen desert company (it featured obscure fruits from the rainforest, providing a sustainable alternative to removal!), he moved on to wine, starting Breggo Cellars in the early 2000s, where he pioneered densely planted Pinot Noir vineyards tended by a tractor custom-designed for the tight rows. Breggo became one of Anderson Valley's most-awarded wineries, and their Pinot Gris was described by Robert Parker as "the finest ever in the world".
But sacrificing cash flow so he could hold a certain vintage until it was fully ready for release ended up producing a call on his bank loan as the Great Recession hit (lesson learned - never rely on a handshake agreement from a banker) and Breggo was forced into a sale.
Don't shed too many tears for the Stewarts though, as he paid off his loan and launched Lichen Estates, eventually getting back his Pinot vineyard and tasting center. He and his wife, Ana, strive "to leave our children and grandchildren land that is healthier than when we arrived". A sustainable vineyard is just a small part of their large property in Anderson Valley, and the whole affair is managed to maximize diversity.
